TOWING RIBs |
| Obtaining the correct licence to tow |
| If you passed your driving test after January 1997, new legislation came in which states you must pass an additional test to prove that you are safe to tow any trailer with a load greater than 750kg. Various driving schools will also be able to teach you how to tow if you think you require a course. |
Here are some alternatives that we have found below:
http://www.trailertraininguk.co.uk
http://www.towing-solutions.co.uk/trailer_towing/dvlc_trailer_towing.htm
http://www.dalestrax.co.uk/towing.html
http://www.diamonddrivertraining.net/trailer_towing.htm
http://www.landroverdriving.co.uk/training.html
http://www.protectraining.co.uk/Trailer%20Training.htm
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| Please note that we have not tested any of these courses to confirm the quality of them. Alternatively you can look in the yellow pages and see if your local driving schools offer any courses. |
DVLA trailer tests cost about £90. Please see the link below for more information. http://www.dvla.gov.uk/media/pdf/leaflets/inf30.pdf
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| Buying a trailer for your rib |
- Ensure you buy a trailer which suits both the weight and dimensions of your boat.
- When searching for your trailer, it is important that you know not only know your boat length, but also the true kerb weight of the boat (which includes fuel and all equipment aboard) so as to not exceed the maximum weight of the trailer which is given by the manufacturer.
- If you are looking for a second hand trailer it is important that you view the trailer before purchasing it in order to carry out a general appraisal. Check the tyres, brakes, bearings, winch and lights are in reasonable condition and be aware that if they aren't, you may have to change them at a later date.
- It is always advisable to buy a reputable brand of second hand trailers as replacing broken bits and obtaining spare parts will be easier. Be aware that although the trailers do not necessarily have a maximum life, the availability of their parts does.
- If you require further advise regarding purchasing a second hand trailer, please call JBT Marine on 0870 908 9336.
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| Selecting a vehicle to tow with |
It is important to ensure that the vehicle you intend to tow your boat with is suitable for the job.
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| Towing capacity of the car |
- Check the gross weight of trailer and boat doesn't exceed the towing capacity of engine/vehicle. The car's maximum towing limit should be found in the vehicle handbook or on the chassis plate which is usually under the bonnet.
- If you aren't given the exact towing limits, you will be given the car's Gross Train Weight (GTW) and the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW).
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| Vehicle's Towing Limit = Gross Train Weight - Gross Vehicle Weight |
- If you are in any doubt, call the manufacturer to check as it is illegal to exceed the car's towing limit.
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| Vehicle and trailer dimensions |
| The length of trailer that you are permitted to tow with your vehicle depends upon the vehicle's gross towing weight: |
Maximum permitted length of towing vehicle and trailer combined is 18m.
Maximum overall permissible train length is 18.35m (this includes a potential overhang)
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| Light Requirements |
2 x back sidelights
2 x red stop lights
1 x illuminated number plate
2 x red triangular red reflectors
2 x amber indicators
If trailer is wider than 1.3m it must have at least one fog light.
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| Before you start your journey |
Car checks: |
- Fill up with fuel and oil before attaching the trailer to avoid complications of entering a petrol station with the trailer attached.
- Ensure that the radiator is filled with water as when towing a large load the engine is under greater strain.
- Check the brakes will be able to safely bring the vehicle and trailer to a halt.
- Practise driving with a trailer
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If you haven't driven with a trailer before, it is an idea to practise somewhere like a deserted supermarket car park at night. You will then be able to practise moving, stopping and turning and reversing down each of the parking rows. Be aware that most normal driving characteristics change dramatically and you will need to do all basic driving manoeuvres like turning, accelerating and stopping much more slowly. You must allow more room when you overtake, more time when you stop and generally be more patient!
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| Connecting up your trailer: |
Most trailers differ slightly with respect to how you connect it up, so it is best that you ensure that your vendor shows you exactly how to connect it up correctly to your vehicle when you buy it.
It is generally regarded that on most trailers, the height of the centre of the ball should be between 16.5-18 inches to the ground whilst on the flat. This usually gives a very good ride height.
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| Trailer safety checks: |
- Ensure that the trailer is loaded properly and is well balanced. All trailer couplings will show the maximum nose weight which they are designed to operate with. Most trailers will be between 60-100kg, and you can always buy a nose load indicator to check that the trailer is loaded correctly. If it is unbalanced, it could result in the trailer 'snaking' behind the tow vehicle.
- Check the boat is securely fastened to the trailer with at least two ratchet straps to stop the boat moving forwards and backwards as well as up and down.
- Check that your trailer is correctly and securely attached to the car and also check that both the hitchball and coupler are secure.
- Check the trailer's emergency brake cable is attached to the tow vehicle. If the police stop you when you don't have the break away cable attached you are likely to receive 4 points on your license. Do not put a security chain and padlock between a braked trailer and vehicle when you are travelling on the road.
- If you have an unbraked trailer, ensure that the safety chains are hitched up.
- Check all the trailer lights (indicators, running and brake lights) are functioning properly.
- Check the number plate is suitably and securely attached and is visible.
- Check the tyre pressures of the tow vehicle and trailer (and spare tyre). The optimum tyre pressures for the trailer will be written on the side of the tyres and it is important that the pressures reach this level. It is also recommended that should you need to buy a new trailer tyre, you mustn't fit a standard car tyre. You must fit a tyre with a ply rating which is suitable for the boat weight you intend on carrying.
- Check the jockey wheel is wound up and secure.
- Check your visibility in your mirrors and if necessary get mirror extensions.
- Check that the mudguards are secure and actually cover the wheels as this is a legal requirement.
- Ensure you have a prop bag as it's a legal requirement.
- Check the brake systems operate properly before you embark on the journey.
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| Driving with your trailer: |
| Double check: |
It's an idea to stop in a convenient place after about 1 mile to double check the trailer hitch attachment, the boat is still secure and not liable to move around and finally that the lights and electrical connections are still working and together.
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| Speed limits: |
Please note that speed limits alter if you are towing a trailer:
Single carriageways unless signs show to the contrary = 50mph
Dual carriageways and motorways = 60mph.
Speed limits also alter in mainland Europe; details of this are shown on the AA website. Please see http://www.aaroadwatch.ie/eumotoring/speed_notes.asp or contact the AA for further details.
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| Motorway driving: |
When travelling on a motorway with three lanes, it is not permitted to drive in the outside lane when towing a trailer.
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| Insurance: |
Check that your breakdown cover includes your trailer. Some companies put a maximum length on the vehicle and trailer, whilst other companies will only cover the car and not the trailer. You don't want to have to leave your RIB behind in a lay-by when you get rescued!
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| Snaking: |
If your trailer starts to sway behind the car when you start driving then there are two ways to correct it.
Driving along a flat level road -
- It would be advisable to take your feet of the accelerator and let the vehicle slow down gradually.
DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKES!
Driving down a hill -
- You must drop down a gear and accelerate in order to try to pull the trailer straight.
Once you have the trailer under the control of the vehicle again, it is advisable to stop and ensure that the load is balanced correctly.
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| Security: |
Trailer theft is quite high on boat trailers. We would recommend that you purchase a good quality wheel clamp and that it is 'Sold Secure' which is an industry standard for quality security items. A hitch lock is also a good idea; this too should be Sold Secure.
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| Trailer maintenance |
| Servicing: |
Boat trailers require more servicing than transportation trailers do. It is recommended to have them serviced professionally at least once a year. Generally the more you use a trailer the better it is for the trailer.
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If you can’t show that your trailer was in good serviceable condition, (and this doesn’t involve you doing the work yourself) it may void you insurance.
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| Looking after your trailer: |
| Wheel bearings and trailer braking systems suffer very badly from salt water corrosion. Although it wouldn't be uncommon to replace bearings and brakes every other season, here are a few tips to prolong its lifetime: |
- When you arrive at the slipway, take 10-20 minutes to prepare the boat before going into the water. Eg remove the straps off, insert the bungs, check over the boat, put your boating kit on, remove the lighting board and push in the trailer board poles etc.
This achieves two things; firstly it ensures that the trailer spends as little time as possible in the salt water. Secondly it will allow time for the bearings and brakes to cool before submersing them. It's quite often to see grease in liquid form around the front and rear of the wheels; this is because the grease becomes more liquid and can often find its way past seals in the bearings. If you put the trailer in the water whilst hot, the water will find its way in to the bearings.
- On returning home with you rib, you should give your boat and trailer a good hosing down to wash them free of the salt water. Some trailer manufacturers provide a brake flushing kit allowing you to flush the brakes with a hose.
- Because bearings are nowadays fairly inexpensive, it is regarded a worthwhile cost to replace them every season whether they are still in a good condition or not.
- It is also recommended to grease the nipples on the trailer after each use.
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Try not to leave the parking brake on whilst on the flat ground and chock the wheels up instead. Leaving the parking brake on for prolonged periods will make the iron filings in the brake lining material rust to your drum. This will result in the brakes sticking to the drum thus not enabling you to tow your trailer away.
If it does happen, depending on your mechanical knowledge, you may get away with tapping the brake drum with a large hammer. This will break the contact between the brake shoe and the drum. If this fails to work, you will need to strip the brakes down and clean them. It's recommended that this is done by a competent person, and if you in any doubt as to what you are doing, please take the trailer to a specialist.
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Finally, also ensure that you pay attention to any maintenance instructions which have been provided by the manufacturers.
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N.B. Boaters who also have caravans -
If you should tow your caravan on a dry ball stabiliser, we recommend that you wipe the ball with a solvent to remove any grease after towing your boat and before you tow your caravan again.
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| The NTTA's Troubleshooting Guide for Trailers |
| Fault |
Possible Cause |
Remedy |
| Brakes overheat |
Wheel brakes over adjusted |
Adjust correctly |
| Wheel brake dirty/rusty |
Clean and re-set |
| Handbrake not releasing or left on |
Check mechanism and adjust |
| Bowden cable(s) kinked |
Check and replace |
| Drawtube dirty and/or bent |
Clean or replace |
| Overrun lever/brake lever Sticking and/or bent |
Grease or replace |
| Braking effort weak |
Wheel brakes not adjusted |
Adjust correctly |
| Brake linings glazed or contaminated |
Clean or replace and re-set |
| Incorrect clearances in system |
Check and re-set |
| Drawtube dirty and/or bent |
Clean or replace |
| Reversing difficult |
Braking system set too tight |
Check and re-set |
| Handbrake weak |
Braking system set incorrectly |
Check and re-set to eliminate excessive travel |
| Uneven or jerky braking |
Too much play in braking system |
Check and re-set |
| Worn damper in overrun |
Replace |
| Faulty components in wheel brake |
Check and replace |
| Ovality in drum |
Check and have skimmed, or replace |
| Wheel brakes unevenly adjusted |
Check and re-set |
| Bowden cable kinked |
Check and replace |
| Brake linings contaminated |
Check and replace |
| Excessive nose weight |
Check and adjust load |
| Banging from overrun when braking |
Damper resistance completely gone |
Replace. Then adjust brakes. |
| Difficulty coupling and uncoupling |
Coupling head mechanism dirty or damaged |
Check and clean or replace |
| Towball dirty |
Clean and, if necessary, grease |
| Towball damaged |
Check and replace |
| Excessive play between coupling head and towball |
Coupling head worn |
Replace |
| Towball worn |
Replace |
| Wear in back of eye and rear of pin |
Jaw too wide |
Check and replace eye |
| Wear on inside and outside of front of eye |
Jaw too tight |
Replace with wider jaw |
| Pin seized in jaw |
Jaw crimped by excessive noseweight |
Replace jaw and reduce noseweight |
| Stress fractures on couplings or trailer drawbar |
Incorrect eye/jaw combination |
Check and replace with compatible components |
| Excessive overhang on towing vehicle |
Check and discuss with operator. Possibly fit Shocklink |
| Mis-match of towing heights |
Modify towball or trailer coupling position or fit height adjustable equipment |
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N.B. after any instance of the brakes overheating it is ESSENTIAL that the wheel bearings and grease are thoroughly checked over and replaced if necessary.
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http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/servicing/fault_finding.htm
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Please call JBT MARINE on 0870 908 9336 or use our website to buy or sell a trailer today!
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Useful terms?
Braked trailers - trailers which have brakes on all of the wheels.
Unbraked trailers - trailers which don't have brakes on them.
Gross vehicle weight - The total weight of the vehicle which includes the driver, passengers, fuel, and all cargo.
Kerb weight - the unladen weight excluding fuel, people etc.
Ply - a term to denote the thickness of steel which is used to strengthen tyres.
Train length - total length which includes the vehicle, boat and trailer.
Sold secure = standard that every security company works to.
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